I have an issue with my TM... my solenoid is not firing. I pulled the gun apart several times, reset the board, played with batteries, poked at the solenoid with no result.
I took my multimeter to the solenoid wires, and got a resistance of 3.3 Ohms through the coil. I measured the solenoid wires coming out of the board and got a reading of .43-.56 volts on full auto, this seems *way* too low to me. I think the voltage should be on the order of 9-18 volts to trigger the solenoid. Does anyone have actual electrical specs for this marker, or can measure the same parts on their marker?
It's a first gen marker ( I think, serial number is below 2000, board reads version 1.0) but the firing selector icons are engraved.
Kinda sucks, because that leaves me with an expensive paperweight.
Thanks.
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Tm7 Issues
#2
Posted 29 March 2009 - 09:30 PM
I know one of the guys had board issues with their TM7 as well, they had to send it back and get a new board. It was either RockFrog or KK, can't remember which of them had the issue though.
SW
SW
#3
Posted 29 March 2009 - 10:01 PM
Mine fried first game and BT (KEE) sent me a new board, Gary's (KK) power switch went titters and they made him send back the whole marker. It;s the o;d classic new platform, new problems ... sadly it would seem BT rushed a bit too quickly to get it out there. Mainly it seems the original assembly boards are the faults, I haven't heard of a replacement failing yet.
Either way it was fixed by BT in good time. Just call the tech number in the back of your manual (paintball solutions). ]FYI there should be a 9v signal to the solenoid for ?ms (can't remember the duration) to open it, then a pause of the dwell setting, and then a reversed polarity pulse to close the solenoid. that may be screwing your voltage readings.
Can't remember If we talked about this one Staurday - but did you pull the solenoid cap (brass), and remove the piston and the sleeve - you'd remember this one, the piston is a bugger to get out the first time, and there's usually some epoxy floating around in there fom assembly. Lightly oil, or leave dry upon re-assembly. Many have reported this has cured a non-functioning solenoid.
Don't get mad here - the eyes are off right?
I have a copy of the board schematics if you want.
Might be time to use the Warranty card.
Either way it was fixed by BT in good time. Just call the tech number in the back of your manual (paintball solutions). ]FYI there should be a 9v signal to the solenoid for ?ms (can't remember the duration) to open it, then a pause of the dwell setting, and then a reversed polarity pulse to close the solenoid. that may be screwing your voltage readings.
Can't remember If we talked about this one Staurday - but did you pull the solenoid cap (brass), and remove the piston and the sleeve - you'd remember this one, the piston is a bugger to get out the first time, and there's usually some epoxy floating around in there fom assembly. Lightly oil, or leave dry upon re-assembly. Many have reported this has cured a non-functioning solenoid.
Don't get mad here - the eyes are off right?
I have a copy of the board schematics if you want.
Might be time to use the Warranty card.
This post has been edited by Rockfrog: 29 March 2009 - 10:02 PM
#4
Posted 30 March 2009 - 03:09 PM
QUOTE (Rockfrog @ Mar 29 2009, 11:01 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Mine fried first game and BT (KEE) sent me a new board, Gary's (KK) power switch went titters and they made him send back the whole marker. It;s the o;d classic new platform, new problems ... sadly it would seem BT rushed a bit too quickly to get it out there. Mainly it seems the original assembly boards are the faults, I haven't heard of a replacement failing yet.
Either way it was fixed by BT in good time. Just call the tech number in the back of your manual (paintball solutions). ]FYI there should be a 9v signal to the solenoid for ?ms (can't remember the duration) to open it, then a pause of the dwell setting, and then a reversed polarity pulse to close the solenoid. that may be screwing your voltage readings.
Can't remember If we talked about this one Staurday - but did you pull the solenoid cap (brass), and remove the piston and the sleeve - you'd remember this one, the piston is a bugger to get out the first time, and there's usually some epoxy floating around in there fom assembly. Lightly oil, or leave dry upon re-assembly. Many have reported this has cured a non-functioning solenoid.
I have pulled the solenoid apart, but only took off the brass cap and the stainless inner sleeve, I didn't feel comfortable pulling the piston out at the time, but I'll just wack it against my table or something to get out.
Don't get mad here - the eyes are off right?
Yes
I have a copy of the board schematics if you want.
I'd appreciate it.
Might be time to use the Warranty card.
Might be right.
Either way it was fixed by BT in good time. Just call the tech number in the back of your manual (paintball solutions). ]FYI there should be a 9v signal to the solenoid for ?ms (can't remember the duration) to open it, then a pause of the dwell setting, and then a reversed polarity pulse to close the solenoid. that may be screwing your voltage readings.
Can't remember If we talked about this one Staurday - but did you pull the solenoid cap (brass), and remove the piston and the sleeve - you'd remember this one, the piston is a bugger to get out the first time, and there's usually some epoxy floating around in there fom assembly. Lightly oil, or leave dry upon re-assembly. Many have reported this has cured a non-functioning solenoid.
I have pulled the solenoid apart, but only took off the brass cap and the stainless inner sleeve, I didn't feel comfortable pulling the piston out at the time, but I'll just wack it against my table or something to get out.
Don't get mad here - the eyes are off right?
Yes
I have a copy of the board schematics if you want.
I'd appreciate it.
Might be time to use the Warranty card.
Might be right.
#5
Posted 30 March 2009 - 07:20 PM
Ok, so I took the solenoid totally apart. I found the smallest pair of needlenose pliers I had and got the piston out with no damage done, oiled the piston and put it all back together; works like a charm now. Thanks, Dave.
#6
Posted 30 March 2009 - 07:40 PM
QUOTE (Twinkletoes @ Mar 30 2009, 08:20 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Ok, so I took the solenoid totally apart. I found the smallest pair of needlenose pliers I had and got the piston out with no damage done, oiled the piston and put it all back together; works like a charm now. Thanks, Dave.
glad to hear it's up again ... I found fishermans forceps perfect for those tiny spaces.
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