[Wannabe]

Hey all,

I was thinking my next marker would likely be an automag as i've owned an autococker but came into paintball when it was either autococker or automag and always wanted a nice mag. Are there good techs for mags in the victoria area?? I am under the understanding that they are fairly basic but I have no experience with them. Opinions on mags strengths and weaknesses also welcome.

[SouthPark]

I have a bunch of mags... which gen were you thinking of? Let me know and perhaps we can connect at TNT or VPB. I'll bring a few and you can try them out. I like them but I can do my own tech work on them when and as needed (they are pretty darn simple mechanically IMO). I think it would be fair to say that there is no "willing" tech in Vic... correct me if I am wrong ;o).

They are getting long in the tooth in terms of design updates. Same basic approach for many years with some updated materials (move from stainless to alum..). There were many revisions of the basic "valve" (power tube, valve, regulator assembly). If you are looking you want to try for a Level 10 bolt (anti chop bolt) IMO. Also look for Retro style valves (RTPro, Retro, E mag, X vlaves). I like these as you can update most of them to an ULTrigger and they have a faster recharge rate. The Classic valve and Minimag valves and the older RT valves were good to... I just like the newer revs.. Center feed bodies (*the original versions) seem to be harder to find barrels for. There is a newer version of the center feed body that is threaded for Cocker barrels, angel feedknecks and has ball style detents... I have one of these and I like them. I also have a "Warp" left body that is also an UL version with ball detent and cocker threads... nice to.

Anyway... there are at least three of us mag users that I know of....

I'm next out to VPB on the 13th of April... let me know if you want to check out a mag.

This post has been edited by SouthPark: 27 March 2008 - 02:08 PM

[Phantom Power]

Automags are excellent markers. They're very simple and reliable, as well as being quite compact. Level 10 and the higher flow valves are a great idea, provided you intend to run the gun on HPA. If you're planning on using CO2 you'll want to stick with the classic valve and a Level 7 bolt. Mag's don't like having liquid CO2 in them at all.

As SouthPark said the newer bodies take cocker threaded barrels, but most of the old style mags take a unique twistlock system that I'm quite fond of.

[Wannabe]

Thanks for the info guys! I was definitely thinking a level 10 bolt and x-valve on HPA, and as far as body style... having a cocker threaded barrel sounds like a nice feature, especially since I was planning on getting some barrels for my cocker anyways. Though it seems you can get an old style body for quite a bit cheaper. I think I will definitely take you up on that generous offer in a while when I can start playing again southpark. I'm just recovering from a shoulder surgery so I have to wait a while until I won't have to worry about injuring it playing.

Thanks for the input!

[tomn8r]

the supernaturals used the automag in competition from the early 90's til about 2001. both the automag and the autococker went head to head for years as the top 2.

some of our retired guys still have their gats - andrew has a boo-yah electric trigger on his. i believe that the bbl on the mag can be modified to fit, lh, rh and cf.

level 10 is a must. absolutely NO co2. it means death to a mag.

cuz we used them 4 so long, if you have a problem, we prolly know the answer. post if you need more info.

[Wannabe]

Anything specific as far as defects/common provlems that I should be keeping my eyes open for when buying used?

[tomn8r]

they are built like a tank; relatively unbreakable. if it holds air it's prolly good.

[SouthPark]

Yep... Tanks. Pretty darn solid... heavy metal.

1. Leaks.

Leak down the barrel = lvl 10 or carrier leaks (most likely)

Leaks out the back = over pressure leak

Leaks out the side down the trigger area = something up with the valve spring pack maybe

2. With the older body styles I look for signs that the power feed has been re tacked on... done right this is not a problem but if it looks like it has been re braised or welded on take a closer look for signs of metal warp or internal burrs etc...

3. Look at the barrels... internally for scratching... on the end of the twist lock for scoring or to see if previous owners have altered the twist lock (ie dremel to change a PR to a CF....).

4. Bolt stick. This can be caused by a bunch of problems....

5. Run away... worn sear most likely the cause (or some other sear related issue) or a worn out bolt.

6. Bolt damage issues... look at the rear of the bolt... there is a large flange that the sear catches on... if there are cuts, dings, or other signs that this part of the bolt is getting hit by the sear's return you have a problem.

Look at the bolt and the valve... look to see if the surface is smooth internally and externally. I have one bolt with really bizarre wear patterns from the main spring rubbing on it.



Gas it up... shoot a hopper into the trap and if the trigger return is good... and it holds air as per Tom's post... you should be good to go.

[Wannabe]

Thanks guys! I am definately going to start putting some cash away and keeping my eyes open for one!